Areas in Detail -

Page links:

N Spain Quiet, unspoilt cruising around N Spain

Balearics
The busy  area of Mallorca, Minorca, Ibiza and the sandy bays of Formentera

Corsica & Sardinia Brilliant white undeveloped beaches and coves, stunning scenery.

Sicily & Malta Unique; bubbling volcanoes and ancient sites

Greece Overview.
  Ionian detail
  S Aegean detail
  N Aegean detail

SW Peloponese Every harbour, cove and anchorage. Good bars, too.

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Copyright Jim Baerselman.
Updated regularly
Last update 15 Apr 08


Please email us with your corrections and comments

Areas in Detail

W Greece; Ionian

This attractive cruising coastline, stretching from Corfu (Kerkyra) to Kythera, offers lots of variety in mainly moderate north-westerly winds.  The Inland Ionian, well sheltered and with a multitude of anchorages and small ports, is probably the most popular (and busiest) sailing area in Greece. But even here, it's less crowded than most places in the western Mediterranean.

Travelling east,  route around the S Peloponese if you have time - it's a rewarding trip, with few yachts and lots to see or do.

A return west through the Corinth canal and Gulf of Patras is sensible, since this minimises your windward sailing, and offers a journey with plenty of rest stops when the westerlies are stronger than average.

There's a separate page with a really detailed tourist (and sailing guide) for the area from Pylos to the Mani Peninsula - since that's our summer residence. Drop by if you're passing Finikounda!

Quick jumps on this page: 
 
North Ionian  |  inland Ionian  |  South Ionian  |  S Peloponese  |  Pilot Guides |

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Cruise Area Detail

North Ionian

An area with moderate northerly winds many afternoons (rarely over F5), and sometimes light southerlies in the mornings. Away from the lee of Corfu, there's sometimes a seaway - with perhaps enough swell to disturb delicate stomachs. Several exceptionally pretty places to visit.  Moderate effects of tourism, fairly busy harbours. Seaplane flights link the area, excellent charter flight connections to UK via Corfu and Preveza. 2 weeks worth

Corfu. (6/10). The harbours and anchorages around Corfu offer reasonable variety, with large numbers of summer charter flights to UK and air links to Athens all year. Frequent ferries to Igoumenitsa, on the mainland.

Northern Islands. Ericousa, Othoni and Mathraki - quiet little islands (with rather cramped harbours) for the adventurous to visit.

Gouvia, (6/10). Gouvia has a full service marina suitable for winter lay up. Popular with live aboards. Big entertainment is watching boats plucking themselves off the sand banks around the bay entrance.

Corfu town (8/10) Well worth a visit, with some lovely old arcades and a lively evening volta, when the population strolls around favourite streets to meet friends and relations. Best consumed before June, since tourism rather overwhelms the place after then. Old port is free, but rather smelly and crowded with commercial craft; the friendly Nautical Club (just south of town) charges a small fee, but is a lot more pleasant.

Petriti (6/10) A working fishing port. Anchor tangles are possible, but it's a pleasure to find a bit of real Greece hiding among the tourist traps of the island.

Paxos & Anti-Paxos. (9/10) for really pretty villages, a variety of tavernas and cafés and some pretty anchorages. Also many delightful, if rather vaguely marked, walks around the olive groves. Spend three or four days here if you can, and make one of your trips a day sail along the west coast, past the dramatic steep white cliffs of Erimitis. Some vessels lay up afloat over winter in Gaios  guardiennage available. Ferries to Corfu and Parga.

Lakka, (8/10), has a well sheltered brilliantly clear blue bay for anchoring (line ashore if you wish). Strong northerly winds will test your anchor set once or twice in the season. Or go bows or stern to the small quay where the wind doesn't blow home, and and pay a fee to the nice port police lady. Over-crowded in July and August. A very pretty, compact village with many good value restaurants (nothing like a bit of competition!) and some expensive quayside bars. Two restaurants we've enjoyed are in the tiny square about 100m inland from the quay - Nionios and Pounentes.

Gaios, (9/10) Enjoy quayside life in this exceptionally pretty village, shaped around a central quayside square. It's crowded by tripper boats from Corfu from 11:00 to 16:00, but the place returns to normal peace and quiet when they leave. Arrive early to find a berth in high season. For food with a strong sense of humour in about five languages, seek out 'Dodo's' restaurant. Turn left along the quay; just before you reach the green man you'll see his sign post. Zig zag about another 150m inland following the signs. The place is decorated with some very ambiguous art, and he's a gem. Don't tell him that 'jim, the dinghy sailor' sent you, since that may release a tirade of mother-in-law jokes.

Loggos (6/10), Tiny, and very pretty if you've got time. Rather exposed, so a lunch time stop really. Walk up to the windmill above the abandoned soap factory for good views, and reccy that unmarked shallow rock just SE of of the harbour (1/10!). 

There are more attractive anchorages around the islands; sheltered Moggonisi sometimes has Greek dancing at their taverna, while the lovely turquoise anchorages around Anti-Paxos become crowded with tripper boats in high season. 

Mainland. There are several anchorages scattered along this coast, in addition to the ports listed below. Watch out for fish farms.

Sayiadha. (6/10), A little visited small fishing village, not suitable for vessels over 2m draft. Plenty of character. A one and a half hour walk up the hill reaches Old Sayidha, close to the Albanian border, a village abandoned during the civil war of the late 1940s.

Igoumenitsa. (2/10), Well sheltered, but no charm at all. It's a major ferry port, connecting with Corfu, Patras, Brindisi, Bari, Ancona and Venice.

Plataria. (5/10), A fairly pleasant small resort for Greeks, busy in high season, well served with tavernas and cafés. A recently built long quay provides good shelter for bows/stern-to anchoring. Some yachts permanently moor here, and it's a turn-round spot for for some 70 or so charter yachts.

Mourtos/Sivota. (5/10). A pleasant cluster of anchorages around the islands, and a village quay sometimes rather exposed to northerly winds.

Parga, don't know how to rate this. Opposite Paxos. A lively and picture postcard pretty (OK, 8/10) resort with a good sandy beach to the north. But dense with tourist tat shops and serried ranks of umbrellas and sunbeds (yuk - 3/10?). Often crowded small yacht quay 1 mile from town. Mind the shallow unmarked rock (1/10!) 2.5nm out of Gaios towards Parga .

Preveza. 7/10. A traditional Greek town with lots of character and 'buzz', only Greek tourism, a long quayside (a bit smelly) and a large, unfinished yacht harbour. Much of the harbour space is empty, marked as 'reserved for xxx'. Since none of the 'xxxs' have paid for this privilege, I prefer to ignore such signs unless someone asks me to move on. Several nearby shipyards (little to choose between them) are suitable for winter lay up ashore. Excellent yacht support. Buses and flights to Athens, charter flights through the summer to UK. The pedestrian quayside is lined with cafes and hosts a lively evening volta. The narrow streets inland, running parallel to the shore, are full of restaurants. Large inland sea to explore (try Vonitsa, an attractive resort for Greeks with a well sheltered quay, and a good castle).

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Inland Ionian

The best features of the Inland Ionian are mainly flat water, sheltered by the islands, and the very large number of small coves and beaches suitable for day anchorages, all within a few miles radius of where-ever you are, some suitable for night stops. The well sheltered sailing makes this a very popular cruising area, so harbours at times are very crowded. Mid September sees the 'Ionian regatta', a very informal day race from Meganisi to Sivota, followed by a grand Knees-Up. Some 100 odd yachts usually participate. Quite a hoot.

Levkas Town  (7/10). A scruffy, lively Greek town complete with markets and good shops. It's a real pleasure to take an evening stroll up the pedestrian high street, which comes to life between 2100 and 2230. Architecture? Upper floors look like tin shacks, designed to survive the rather frequent earth tremors. For yachts, there's a good but expensive full service marina, or a much cheaper (slightly smelly) town quay. Excellent yacht support facilities and helpful port police. Very soft mud bottom  check your anchor won't come home if you're on the quay. Several choices for winter lay up. Buses to Athens, flights to Athens, summer charter flights to UK. The canal south of town is also a takeoff runway for the local seaplane service running via Paxos to Corfu.

Nidri  A tourist dense town (2/10), with excellent yacht support facilities (8/10) including sailmaker, engineers, stainless steel fabrication, George's superb chandlery in the high street, and Voula's 'Prawns in Tomato sauce' - the latter dish available at Nick the Greek's (a rare example of an un-reconstructed Greek taverna in this resort). Yachtie nightlife centres around 'Bubbles' bar. The town setting could be wonderful (8/10), but quayside views are blocked by huge excursion boats and the heavy traffic, which chooses not to use the town bypass. Add the neon lights, noise, fast food joints, pushy restaurant touts, and this is an appalling example of what tourism can do to what was a small village. For yachts, the quay is crowded and affected by chop. The Neilson quay is better during daytime (just south, off Athos' hotel). Pay at the hotel reception for fresh water or showers. Anchor nearby or opposite in the soft mud of Tranquil bay, a short dinghy hop from town.

Vliho Bay (6/10), Levkas, is a very large, well sheltered anchorage further south, which has some good, rather other-worldly tavernas dotted around its coast. Cheap winter lay up ashore is possible here with pull out by wooden sledge into traditional yards using wooden props. Pray there won't be an earthquake. Or even cheaper, just pull up onto the mud in Tranquil or Vliho bay with an anchor or two off the stern. All the facilities of Nidri are a 20 minute walk away.

Meganisi Island  (9/10) Hill villages, and numerous quiet and sheltered anchorages around its much indented coast (some busy with wasps in late summer!) make this island a 'must visit'. Climb up to Spatahori and/or Katomerion, 8/10 each, really quaint villages stuck in 1970s Greece, but with colour television, satellite dishes, air conditioning and a simple, but enjoyable taverna or two in each village. Leave the very hospitable (almost industrial!) quayside tavernas of Porto Spilia (4/10) to the flotillas unless you want to use their showers. Instead try Taki's taverna in Spatahori for the evening - often a  very lively spot - and for breakfast try the restaurant above the balcony at the village entrance - fabulous views.  Above Vathi (6/10) the taverna in Katomerion offers a change from the bustle of the quayside, worth the 15 minute climb. Visit the massive sea cave 70% of the way down the west coast of Meganisi leave someone on board to tend the yacht (you can't anchor safely here) while the rest go in and explore by dinghy.

Sivota Bay  (3/10 - unless you value the young yotty night life of the bars) This well sheltered bay on the south coast of Levkas has lots of space, a long quay and no character. Developed to serve the flotilla market, its west side is one continuous quay, lined with tavernas, shops, bars and yachts moored bows/stern to. Villas have sprouted around the surrounding hill sides.

Vassiliki Bay (6/10), Levkas, is a windsurfer's paradise, thus sometimes very windy. The cross wind when anchoring stern-to can be challenging. But the harbour is pretty (7/10), with a ring of quayside tavernas and cafés and fresh water around the quay. It's a good people watching site in a lovely setting. There's a sneaky uncharted 1.7m patch of sand just north of the harbour entrance, which catches many yachts unawares and provides good entertainment, morning and evening. For nightllife, Eros nightclub cuts in after 22:30

Kastus & Kalamos  Small islands. 8/10 for peace and quiet, 2/10 for facilities. Several quiet quays and anchorages as long as a flotilla isn't visiting.

Mytikas (6/10) A holiday resort for Greeks on the mainland, just opposite Kalamos. The town invested in a bypass to remove traffic, and now has a very pleasant high street. The harbour is dredged to 3m with good quays all round, and a further basin is being built just west (watch out - Oct 2007 the new quays were awash!). The flotillas haven't yet discovered this place . . . though some live-aboards winter afloat here. Koxili, a hotel/restaurant/café just 100m west of the old harbour, is worth a special journey. Linen table cloths, wide menu, good food, and only average prices for the area. Spoil yourself - but book ahead in high season, tel/fax: 26460-81356.

Astakos  (7/10), on the mainland, is a small farming and fishing town with lots of character and little tourism. Most evenings in summer a 'volta' develops along the quayside around 21:00, with families coming out, parading up and down the traffic free front, passing gossip and showing off their children. Excellent (and cheap) fresh fish shop. Ignore the menus  the restaurants here will rattle off their available food in pidgin English . . . this place is real country Greece. We love it, but some visitors find it too foreign!

Fiskardo (7/10), N Cephallonia, is a crowded, smart little port with quite classy restaurants and cafés, well worth a visit. Food here is generally very good, and if you're ready for a change from Greek cuisine, try 'Lord Falcon'. Tucked 90m behind the SW corner of the harbour, they offer good Thai food as well as some more conventional Greek dishes. The harbour is often seriously overcrowded with yachts, and if a southerly wind blows locally (only rarely happens in settled weather) there's chaos; late arrivals then have to bail out. Fresh water on the quays and pontoon. Café Tselenti, also a good restaurant, provided the inspiration for 'Capt Corelli's Mandolin', and Minas (who owns the place and used to be a professional guitar player) is a mine of knowledge  and CDs covering a wide range of music and plays it all on a superb sound system. Not only that, he sells draft beer. Agree a play list with him for the afternoon, then it's a great place to read a novel while he takes his siesta.

Ayios Euphemia (5/10), Cephallonia. Visit here for restaurant 'Paradise' (turn right from the quayside, go 500 metres). Stavros still runs this good restaurant, popular with Greeks from all over Cephallonia. The more international style of the Fiskardo restaurants is catching up with him though. Otherwise, a very small hamlet whose  quayside road is lined with a few cafés and restaurants. Often quite windy going in, which makes anchoring stern-to with a cross-wind quite demanding. Bows-to is easier. Notices threaten quite high fees for mooring here, but there was no-one around to collect them when we visited (late September '07). Water and electricity.

Sami, (5/10). Cephallonia. A useful stop to visit either the stalagmite decorated Droghorati Cave (7/10), or travel in a punt around the half drowned Mellissani Caves (8/10), both within 5km, though these can also easily be reached from Ay. Euphemia.

SE Cephallonia Beaches, a string of good day anchorages, good for night stops also if you're a brave soul with good ground tackle. But don't blame me if the night wind and waves rock you awake. And while we're mentioning rocks, make sure you've got your exit plotted out before you go to sleep. A marina is under construction close to the airport ('08) on the south coast, which will extend the comfortable usable Cephallonia cruising area.

Argostoli Town, (7/10), Cephallonia. A bit off the beaten track if you're travelling through, but we enjoyed the pedestrian precinct of the town, the lively evening volta, the excellent range of shops, and the sheer native bustle of the town, only lightly touched by tourism. And of course, bars with the range of 'Craft' Greek draft beers expensive, but classily made by a Bavarian/Greek brewer. The 'marina' outside the town was dangerously exposed to surge from the regular northerly winds when we were last there ('06) though we have been told that new constructions are improving the shelter

Ithaka (7/10) offers a nice range of anchorages and small harbours, reasonably isolated from mainstream tourism. Ithaca town itself (Vathi) lives a couple of decades in the past, but has a fine traditional restaurant in the centre of town (Nicos) and several quite lively bars. North of Vathi are Kioni and Frikes, two tiny villages, now living largely off yacht visitors. Both are affected by occasional wash from passing high speed ferries - which makes the pontoon in Frikes dangerous for mooring. The coast north of these villages has some empty beaches, suitable for day anchorages.

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Patras Gulf & Gulf of Corinth

Going east? Much better to go round the S Peloponese if you've got time. If you're using the Gulf to work west against the prevailing winds, it's best to make early morning departures, motoring as necessary. Keep to the north shore, where the wind sets in later. Places are described east to west. There are enough (not very interesting) commercial ports en route to remove the need for night sailing.

Corinth Canal 10/10, one of the great sights of Europe, and you can actually go through it (at a price) rather than just gawping from the top.

Itea Galaxidi  If you love the sites of ancient Greece, a stop at one of these ports is a 'must' in order to visit Delphi, 9/10. Only 9, because Delphi  is disgustingly crowded in July and August, but the setting makes up for even that. Itea 4/10 has a well sheltered 'marina', but is a rather dull little town. Galaxidi 6/10 is a pleasant little town in its own right you'll be mooring stern- or bows-to a well sheltered quay, so make sure no-one is going to lift your hook while you're away.

Trizonia 7/10, an island with excellent alongside berths opposite the small hamlet of Glifhada. 'Laid back' fits this quiet little spot, very popular with yachts transiting the gulf. Some stick here for days; others stay over winter. And there's nothing here really, except Lizzie's yacht club. For sale, I'm told.

Navpaktos  6/10 overall, has a unique, beautiful tiny mediaeval port (8/10). But it is noisy. And because it's so tiny, and hemispherical, all anchors lie in a heap in the centre of the harbour (2/10 at departure time). You may not find a place in July and August, so in settled weather you may have to anchor off the beach rather rolly at times..

Patras 3/10, is the third largest city in Greece, and the busiest port on the west coast. It has a good yacht harbour (they always charge you for two nights minimum stay), and a shipyard with hoist, so should be suitable for lay up. Rather intrusive port police. Frequent bus and rail to Athens, ferries to Corfu and Italy (Ancona, Brindisi, Venice). The nearby Rio bridge, crossing the gulf, is an impressive sight. Get radio permission before passing under it - they'll tell you which span to go under.. Some 30 to 40 miles to the east, easily reached by rail, is the rack and pinion railway running up a dramatic gorge from Dhiakofto to Kalavrita (9/10).  This is one of the gems of the Peloponese, so plan to stay both days in Patras to enjoy this trip. Find a travel agent and book the day before the train is often full. If you have a bit more time, spend some time touring the area around Kalavrita by car,  visiting the 'Cave of Lakes', a long cave with a river/stream running through it. There's an excellent description of the area and some of its history on Matt Barrett's site .

Messolonghi 3/10, not a beautiful place, but a suitably sheltered stop if you're working west. Fascinating houses on stilts around the harbour entrance have your camera ready. There's a collection of military hardware in an enclosure by the harbour . . . how the planes flew there I don't know.

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South Ionian

A coast of passage; easy if you're going south with the prevailing northerlies. Going north can be a PITA; either wait for a light forecast, or set off early each morning. Kiparissia's recently extended harbour is a welcome new stop for the northerly passage.

Zante 4/10, except Taverna Arekia - 9/10 for local colour. If you overnight in the town harbour (not a brilliant place), visit 'Arekia'. Once ashore, travel right (north) along the sea front. Pass the lido (about a kilometre?), then look out for a group of small tavernas. Arekia is a hoot. Most nights a bunch of guys go round the tables singing their hearts out making up rude/pointed/funny songs about each group of guests. In Greek. My crewmates were two attractive 30 year old Dutch girls. 'Don't we all wish we could manage two at his age lucky man!' - followed by loads of hearty laughter and slaps on the back from complete strangers. They call it 'kantadhes'. Nearby 'Alivisos' also does music, more formal though.

Killini 1/10. Tatty and dull, but useful as a sheltered harbour for a brief rest while beating to the north. Ferry terminal for Zante and Cephallonia.

Mainland Coast  2/10, One of the longest undeveloped sand beaches in Greece, notoriously lacking in decent harbours. Blackened by serious forest fires in 2007

Katakolon, Good marina was recently completed, but recent reports (Jun '08) say that the pontoons are no longer in position, while their mooring blocks still clutter the harbour floor. Rather grotty town, but stop here to 'do' Olympia 9/10. As ruins go in Greece, this is one of the top sites, though ridiculously crowded in high summer or if more than a couple of cruise ships are in.

Kiparissia. A busy town, no tourists, very Greek, attractively set below a mountain range. The recently extended harbour walls now provide first class shelter, making this a useful stop en route north or south. Work is still in progress (Jun '08).

Nisos Proti. When winds are from N to NE, there's an area of accelerated wind for about 10nm north of Proti. This is a  local effect, going about 3nm to sea, adding 1 or 2 beaufort to the regular wind.

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S Peloponese

Here you'll see some of the best beaches in Greece, and off the headlands, terrain effects can turn the regular westerlies into some strong, but very localised, winds. The western part of this area from Navarino Bay to Kalamata and Stoupa is described in much more detail at the SW Peloponese Harbours page of this web site.

Pylos  9/10 for the shaded cafés around the town square, the old arcades and the good (but incomplete and unmanaged) marina. No organised tourism, some foreign presence. 50 ton crane for a shore lay-up - if you can find the operator.

Navarino Bay, Yialova, Voidokilia  8/10, stunning beaches, sheltered anchoring, great walks, wonderful views. Yialova has a particularly good small seasonal restaurant (Oasis) worth a journey. Anchor off. It's immediately SE of the quay root — and close to a lovely shaded beach (more detail through the SW Peloponese tab above).

Methoni 7/10, pleasant town, enormous castle. A sunset bar/restaurant on the ridge above town: look out for the green flash. 'Ostria' café has free WiFi, and it's neighbouring restaurant (To Meltemi) on the small harbourside square is good. No organised tourism, some foreign residents. Many beach anchorages between here and Finikounda.

Finikounda 9/10, farming village full of atmosphere, just waking up to tourism. Lots of nearby beaches for day anchorages. Water and (informal) electricity on the quay.

Koroni 8/10, not a very comfortable anchorage, but a lovely town bustling with life along the harbour front, narrow lanes winding up the hillside and a shady castle to walk around. No organised tourism, some foreign residents.

Kalamata 7/10, for its full service marina, (link) suitable for winter lay up ashore or afloat. Good engineer and chandler. Busy, thoroughly Greek town, rather untidy. Good base for visiting Mistras (10/10) (link), another of those wonderful Greek sites, and Diros caves, see below. Buses to Athens, summer charter flights from nearby airfield.

Diros Caves  9/10.  A wonderful sea level cave system (link). A tour in a punt takes you through miles of passageways lined with stalactites. The anchorage has poor shelter in any wind, so consider visiting from Stoupa, Kalamata or Gythion.

Port Kayio  4/10. A tiny hamlet with three summer tavernas in a rather stark setting. Useful as an en-route stop, but don't seek it out. Best holding in westerlies is in the western-most corner of the bay, quite a long row to the village.

Gythion 7/10. A pleasant, busy little town with no organised tourism. Another good base from which to visit Mistras 10/10. Also, walk out along the causeway (just south) to see the lighthouse and visit the museum, which describes much of the extraordinary history of the families who occupied and feuded over the Mani peninsula, building fortress houses from which to conduct their battles.

Elafonisos 10/10 for quiet anchorages. If the regular winds are blowing, tuck into the W side of the south facing Frangos bay. Brilliant turquoise sand. One of the great beaches of Greece, Greek visitors, some brollies, no tourism, a taverna and a camp site about 1km over the dunes. If it's too rolly here, go to the town, since it's not easy to find good holding in the eastern facing anchorage. 

Kythera 2/10. A very quiet, rather barren island with few comfortable anchorages. The Hora 6/10, above Kapsali, is worth a visit in quiet weather, but it's well away from most people's routes.

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Suitable Pilot guides

We can recommend two pilot guides:

Greek Waters Pilot, Rod Heikell, published by Imray Norie and Wilson. Available in most chandlers. See: http://www.imray.com/record.cfm?i_stock_code=068D

2. Greece, Sea Guide, Nikolaos Ilias, 4 volumes in Greek and English. Expensive, but more anchorages and detail than Heikell, and  including charts. Obtainable from chandlers in Greek leisure yachting centres. See:  http://www.eagleray.gr/