Messinia
A tourist guide to this corner of the SW Peloponese
Travel
Travel to Messinia
Kalamata Flight Schedules
From Athens by Car
Accommodation
Where to Stay around Finikounda
Houses for Sale
Two
houses for sale in Finikounda
Big house
New Villa
Updated 30 Jul 2009
Copyright, Jim Baerselman
Messinia
We
sailed around Greece for several years, then sold the yacht and bought a
house near our favourite village, Finikounda, in
Messinia
- a province of the SW Peloponese.
This section is a tourist guide to the area. Towns, harbours, marinas and anchorages from Navarino Bay to the Mani are described below, together with nearby places worth visiting (Mistras, Diros Caves, Navarino Bay and the gorge and waterfalls near Kazarma).
Additional pages cover ways to travel from UK to Messinia via Athens or Kalamata airports, and include bus timetables, taxi and car hire recommendations.
If you haven't got a boat, Messinia is easily explored from Finikounda, a small village with four lovely sandy beaches and a laid back atmosphere. It's ideal for families with younger children and those who don't need a 'hot' night life. Where to Stay in Finikounda has it's own page - which including details of our house for friends and relations visiting us.
And if you fall in love with the area, you may wish to buy a house. There are two houses for sale , a short walk from Finikounda village, and just 3 min walk from Anemomilos beach.
Quick jumps to places on this page:
Top | Kalamata | Places worth visiting | Navarino bay | Pylos | Methoni | Finikounda | Koroni | Agios Andreas | Petalidi | Kitries | Stoupa
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Messinia
Messinia is the administrative district which governs the SW Peloponese. Messini, just by Kalamata airport, is its capital. Massive mountains are interspersed with fertile plains, rich with olive trees, citrus fruits, grapes and raisins. Long sandy beaches are served by occasional tavernas. This is farming country. It isn't a busy tourist area, though its beaches are some of the finest in Greece. Click on the map above to bring up a new window showing where all the following places are:
Kalamata
Kalamata is a bustling town of about 50,000 population. Tourism makes no significant impact. A nearby military airport is used by summer charter flights, other visitors arrive at the bus station nearly 3km inland from the harbour and marina. East of Kalamata bus station by about 400m is the 'old town', a lively market area with an eclectic collection of shops, many of which specialise in selling almost everything at once. The commercial centre is about 1km south of this old town, a more disciplined approach to retail.
The Marina. The marina, just west of the large (but quiet) commercial harbour, has good facilities for yachts and is inexpensive. Many EU flagged yachts winter there, both afloat and ashore. An experienced diesel engineer is available - John Varkas. He speaks excellent English with an American twang and also runs a chandlery. As befits a busy farming area, almost any kind of metal work is possible with many excellent engineering suppliers. Lucy repairs awnings and polyester sails.
Restaurants. Conveniently, the main restaurant area of the town surrounds the marina. These are high quality (for Greece), yet probably cheaper than any you'll find on the islands. Meal for two with drinks, from €20, to €30 for something really nice.
Places worth Hiring a Car for:
Mistras is one of the most impressive ancient sites in the Peloponese, and easy to reach from Kalamata, Gythion or Stoupa. Hire a car, take the two hour trip east. Go early to avoid the heat!
Diros caves are some of the most extensive caves that visitors can easily explore - by flat bottomed punt. Hire a car to visit, about 2 hours from Kalamata and about two hours for the tour.
Kazarma Waterfalls. This is an extremely pretty spring and early summer walk passing many pools and rapids, and a modest but high waterfall. It's shaded and cool, with butterflies and wild flowers everywhere. To see the whole, you need a little agility and good stout walking shoes or trainers. Kazarma is on the road between Kalamata to Pylos, about 8km west of Rizomilos. A brown tourist sign points to 'Waterfalls'. After one kilometre you arrive at a village, the road turns to dirt, and a board with a big map on it eggs you on. Signs are frequent if you're on track. A couple of kilometres further (and a few sump bumps if you're unlucky) you arrive at the first of two parking lots. Walk down from here if the road is damp, unless you've got a 4WD. Otherwise, bounce down the steep hill to the second parking place. Walk down into the gorge, then go uphill along the stream for the waterfall (300m), and downhill for the butterflies and flowers (500m). Take a picnic . . . find a rock . . .
Navarino Bay
Navarino Bay is semicircular, almost 4 miles across, and almost totally enclosed by Sphakteria Island. It's entered from the south (the northerly entrance is rock encumbered). It contains a number of attractions . . .
Yialova. Anchor off. Yialova has a lovely beach, shaded with tamarisks and other trees, lovingly cared for by the Zoï hotel, and there's a cluster of other seasonal restaurants and cafés. We particularly recommend the small restaurant, 'Oasis', just east of the quay root; which offers several imaginative dishes in addition to finely flavoured standard Greek food.
A Walk; Schinolaka Waterfall. From Yialova, there's a walk to a rather fine waterfall, which usually flows well until about mid June. It's about 2nm (4km) inland, just south of Schinolaka. From Yialova quay, head straight inland. Just beyond the zig-zag bridge, turn right along the tarmac road. Half a mile further on, look out for the first right turn down an unsurfaced road; follow this for a mile, greeting the permanently moored campervan en route. When the track turns back on itself, look out for an opportunity to turn left along the edge of a field, and hunt for a footpath. Scramble along this path for about 600m. On arrival, the setting is lovely. The 20m waterfall drops into a pool, in the centre of which rises a rock, often home to sun basking terrapins.
A Walk; Castle, Nestor's Cave and Voïdokilia. This is reached from the north corner of Navarino Bay (follow the left turn to Voïdokilia about 1km north of Yialova, or anchor off if you're on a boat). About 300m west of a seasonal café there's a car park, right by a shallow sea entrance to the bay. North is a nature reserve surrounding a fresh water lagoon, home of the rare African Chameleon, winter resident birds and spring and autumn migrations - a good spot for sunset bird watching. The castle walk starts from the car park, (4km, wear good trainers, wonderful views). Follow the signpost left to 'the castle'. Climb to the northernmost point of the castle for superb views. For a circular walk, there's a steep and rocky scramble through a hole in the north face of the castle. The first 15m is the hardest bit, so if you're OK with that, carry on down. The rest is a steep and rocky path until you reach Nestor's Cave. In 2002 the cave was a home to thousands of bats. Sadly, some unthinking people decided to have a bonfire and barbecue inside. Bats gone now. Carry on down to Voïdokilia, one of the most beautiful beaches in Greece (though you may suffer from sand-blasting in stronger winds!). Swim, recover from the climb, then return south through the sand dunes and around the lagoon edge to your starting point.
Navarino Developments. There are plans to develop two 18 hole golf courses with supporting tourist accommodation, one at Romanou, about 2nm north of the Voïdokilia (nearly complete June 2008), and one between Pylos and Yialova (earth movers at work June 2008). This is likely to cause some change of character for the area from 2010 onwards, including much improved road connections to Kalamata and Athens.
Pylos
Pylos is a stylish small town set on the south corner of Navarino bay, population about 3,500. It has a castle (worth a visit), and a well shaded and lively main square surrounded by cafés on three sides, with the harbour on the fourth. The square is a great spot for people watching, especially in the evenings when all the families come out for a coffee and gossip while the children buzz around the square with footballs, bikes and prams. The west quay of the harbour has a busy traditional ouzeri, good for a quick bite to eat. There are several small hotels and plenty of village rooms. There's little concession to tourism in Pylos, since the nearest beach (good, tamarisk shaded) is half way round Navarino bay, at Yialova, 6km north (see above). ATMs are available.
Pylos Marina is 300m north of Pylos square. It is excellently sheltered in all weathers. Visitors go inside, alongside the outer quay, or end on in any available space. The marina is incomplete, with no management or electricity (June 2008). It's a good place to leave a yacht for a month in summer, and several yachts winter here, living aboard without power. Charges are the normal port police fees. A 40 ton crane is available (finding the operator is a challenge, ask Nikos in the chandlery on the road above), and some yachts lift out for winter, paying only for lift and launch.
Methoni
Methoni was almost an empty town in 1975, but it has slowly re-populated (1,200), many houses being bought and renovated by German, Dutch and (recently) British owners. It is now a busy small tourist town in the summer with a very large castle occupying the southern headland. There is a recently renovated bar/taverna area near the beach by the castle. The café 'Ostria' on the SE side offers free WiFi to it's customers, and the neighbouring restaurant 'To Meltemi' pays great attention to detail - his salt cellars have enlarged holes so that they actually work! Food's good too. The beach is nothing very special - rather dusty. The town centre (some 500m north of the castle) has an ATM and post office. The town high street has an attractive un-reconstructed Greekness about its shops and restaurants.
Sunsets can be watched from a splendidly positioned restaurant/bar (Kalohora) on the west ridge above the town. Just carry on up the hill from the beach past the entrance to the castle until you reach the top; follow the road to the right for 150m. From this wonderful perch there's a clear sea horizon all the way to Sicily, so it's a good spot to look out for the fabled 'green flash'. Excellent air conditioning too - brisk breezes straight off the cool sea! Very welcome on the hotter days of summer. En route to Kalohora, look out for restaurant 'Klimataria' on the left just before you reach the castle - traditional food cooked with tasty modern innovations, beautifully presented in display cabinets to make your choice easy. Very good value for money.
Methoni anchorage is shallow closer to the shore, so it's a row to the town quay, and holding is a bit patchy due to weed.
Click
here to see the
other
nearby anchorages. Heading east from Methoni,
once you pass the first headland, there's a string of coves and sandy
beaches, many of which are sheltered in varying degrees from the
prevailing wind and swell.
Lampes is home to the really smart and rather pricy seasonal bar/restaurant, 'Destino', - which knows how to prepare rare beef steaks! Additionally it has a refreshing fresh water swimming pool - for the price of an (expensive) beer you can enjoy the complete luxury of a fresh water bathe.
Sapientza island has an anchorage in Longos, on the east side. From here it's an energetic walk to the lighthouse, and an easier walk to the old crater of a volcano. Mind the wild pigs and goats. Schiza island is safe to sail nearby (it's no longer used as a target for aircraft), but has no anchorages.
Finikounda.
Finikounda was a small farming settlement, and is now also a small holiday resort with a winter population of about 600 and a WiFi hotspot since 2007, though this seems to saturate with traffic at weekends. It has four superb sandy beaches, none of them crowded. The easternmost beach (Loutsa) usually has a cooler onshore breeze, most attractive in the summer heat. Turtles occasionally nest on some. There's also a small harbour, about 15 summer tavernas. You pay a little more in Elena's, above the harbour, but it is particularly good and has a lovely setting. There are several small small hotels, many studios ideal for families and village rooms (accommodation here). Several bars and cafés are set along the beach and main street, and there are four campsites on the neighbouring beaches. Over winter three or four tavernas, a couple of cafés and essential shops stay open. See today's picture of the harbour at http://www.finikounda.com/
The Harbour. The harbour (click for plan) is well sheltered from seasonal winds, but exposed to the south and south east. Moor bows or stern to on the outside of the quay which projects south from the beach. Some ballast rocks extend from the base of the quay, so 'bows to' is best if you want to step ashore. There's water and (informal!) electricity on the quay, tapped off one of the quay lights. Alternatively, anchor off in 3m - 4m. If there's any south in the wind, this can be a little rolly.
Nearby anchorages. If you feel like a swim in a fresh water swimming pool, anchor off the watersports hotel (GoldenSun) just east of the town. The beer is expensive, but the setting is stunning. For total peace and quiet, and if there isn't too much westerly swell, anchor in sandy Maratho bay, 2nm south east of Finikounda harbour. Tuck right in to the north corner, and take a line ashore. Magic. Pray a RIB doesn't come roaring in to steal your peace.
Koroni
Koroni is a picturesque and busy small town (pop 1,800) set on a steep site crowned with a beautiful shaded fortress (well worth a visit), from which there are magnificent views. The harbour front is lined with cafés and tavernas, some rather expensive and a bit too close to the town sewage outlet to be comfortable in a light NW wind. They're geared to Greek tourists on day trips from Kalamata, and German or Dutch owners from the villas strung along the beach to the south. A little alley just west of the church square has a couple of ethnic eateries which are better value for money. Accommodation is easy to find, except perhaps in the six week high season (mid July to late August). The best beach (Zaga/Meni) is over the ridge south of the town, a quiet stretch of several kilometres of good sand dotted with turtle nests, interspersed with some gravel patches.
The Anchorage shelves gently towards the shore, so you'll probably have to anchor 100m to 200m off the quay. Prevailing winds blow towards the quay, but with only a short fetch, so shelter is adequate, especially in the west of the anchorage. But make sure your anchor is well dug in before going ashore.
Agios Andreas
Agios Andreas (36º 51'.83N, 21º 55'.38E), also known as Logga (pop 1,000) was an old Greek holiday resort which faded, but has now re-awoken after a new harbour was built with a rather posh quayside area. It's busy with Greek tourists in six weeks of the high season but quiet outside this time. Tavernas, cafés and shops are open from May to October. There are good sandy beaches each side of the harbour.
The Harbour, enclosed by quays with an entrance at the southern end, provides good shelter. It's dredged to 3m, with massive mooring posts capable of holding 500 ton coasters. However, the locals have a cunning way of keeping bigger vessels out - the entrance has only been dredged to 2m. At 2.1m we were able to bounce gently in over the sand. Small local craft now fill the inner harbour. The southern corner of the harbour usually has plenty of quay space, but is uncomfortable if there's any seaway from NE to E. Approach over an un-even bottom (4m to 7m) from the east or north east and moor alongside.
Petalidi
Petalidi is a busy small market town (pop 1,300) centred around a sleepy square. It's a popular holiday resort for Greeks with a good beach to the north and a harbour just south, but few foreign tourists visit.
The harbour is well sheltered by a robust quay projecting from the south. There's usually room for a 2m draught boat to push in and moor bows or stern to between the many smaller boats.
Kitries
Kitries is a tiny hamlet with a couple of good tavernas and an anchorage open to the NW - though the wind doesn't blow home. It's a favoured day trip for yachts from Kalamata.
Stoupa
Stoupa is a busy and pretty small resort (pop 1,100 - also known as Neohori) about 12nm south east of Kalamata on the Mani peninsula. Centred around three sandy coves, Stoupa is active from early May until October, mainly with British holidaymakers aged 40+, quite a few of whom have bought properties in the area. At the southern end of the middle cove is a cluster of tavernas with excellent sunset views. On the terrace above these obvious places you'll find Voula's taverna - 'Yesterday and Today' (strongly recommended), which serves Greek cuisine with a difference in a lovely old building. Voula also runs expositions on baking, olive oil extraction and soap manufacture. A fascinating stop.
Kalogria (36º 51.1'N) is the northernmost cove, a popular day sailing anchorage from Kalamata when there's not too much westerly swell. From the sea it's attractive, with a turquoise blue sandy bottom and a fresh water spring welling up in the cove entrance. Approach from the north. The middle cove (where most of the town lives) is shallow, with occasional rocks <2m, so should only be approached with great care. The southern most cove is guarded by shallow reef extending nearly half a mile offshore. Avoid.
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