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Cruise Area Detail

Evia and the N Sporades

Northern Greece. (5/10) Northern Greece (Macedonia and Thrace) is seldom visited by yachts. The climate is a bit more extreme, with colder winters, more humid summers, and less predictable winds than the other areas. Massive mountains to the west include Olympia, home of the gods. A century ago much of this area was Turkish, which probably explains why food and restaurant service are so much better here. The towns also have more 'buzz', but perhaps you have to speak a little Greek to appreciate that.

Thessaloniki, the second largest city in Greece, is a lively city with a better ‘take’ on food compared with the rest of Greece. It's a port of entry. The port itself is very messy, but there's a busy, full service marina at Aretsou, just outside the main bay, with a hospitable yacht club a short distance towards the town. Those who have over wintered here praise the city and its vibrant all year round life, but criticise the occasional cold spells in winter.

Khalkidiki to the east has some very fine beaches and anchorages around the Kassandra and Sinthiona peninsulas. These are holiday playgrounds for Thessaloniki, busy in July and August, with additional foreign tourists flying in from the international airport. A cruise around the peninsula of Akti takes in towering Mount Athos (9/10) and its famous monasteries clinging to the cliffs. Porto Carras is a rather grand hotel development; the attached marina is advertised as full service, but doesn't seem to have enough work to keep the chandlery well stocked, and in winter the place seems rather dead. The Carras vineyards nearby (high class wines!) may compensate, but I don't know if they offer wine tastings . . .

Kavala is another lively port city, and a port of entry.

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E Sporades

E Sporades (4/10). The summer meltemi blows quite strongly through the spaced out islands that make up the E Sporades. Which makes for fine sailing, if a bit rolly,  when you're heading south. Working north, Samos/Ikaria are easily reached; they are effectively part of the Dodecanese cruising area. To reach the other islands, cost hopping north along the Turkish cost is appropriate. Or travel in spring or autumn when the winds are less persistent.

The main islands (Thassos, Samothraki, Limnos, Lesvos, and Khios) are 40 to 50nm from each other. Each is quite large, and completely different from the others. There are enough interesting ports, pretty harbours, quiet anchorages and friendly people to make each island worth a visit while you’re sailing through. The northernmost islands are only lightly touched by tourism, and on these many seasonal restaurants may be closed outside July and August. Lesvos and Samos are a little busier than the others. Ports of entry are at Mirini in Limnos, Mitilini in Lesbos and Pythagorion in Samos.  At each of these you are likely to be asked to check in with the port police.

Thassos is a popular resort island for visitors from the Balkan states; food here is cheap and cheerful. On  the north of the island, seek out the classic sites (the agora and the acropolis) close to the Ancient Port in Thassos town. On the south of the island, don't miss Alyki, a well preserved old hamlet with good, if rather crowded, beaches

Samothraki has few visitors, and the only suitable port, Kamariotissia, is yacht friendly. It's worth taking a bus or taxi to visit the ruins of the Sanctuary of the Great Gods, about three miles NE, near the coast. Travel back through Hora, an attractive town.

Limnos has mainly Greek visitors in peak season, and a few thousand Greek soldiers and airmen protecting the island from Turkish invasion. It's strong points are a number of pleasant anchorages around the SW corner of the island (with the shore sides slowly being developed), and fine wines. The port of entry, Myrina, has a lot of character, with a nice mix of old mansions and small stone houses, all overlooked by a grand (flood-lit) castle.

Lesvos. I never understood the rush of tourism to Lesvos around the 1990s, except that it has an airfield which accepts large passenger jets. The port of entry, Mytilini, is interesting, but scruffy and slightly seedy; a marina infrastructure is in place in the harbour. Plomarion, to the south, is a more pleasant port, though subject to surge in strong northerlies. Molivos (Mythimna) on the north coast was often described as the prettiest village on the island, but now seems to have lost its heart to tourism. I did like the anchorage in Sigri though; peace and quiet. Inland is different, because quite large agricultural areas are inaccessible to motor transport, which leaves a lot of the island relying on donkeys to gather the harvests.

Khios I like. The town is busy place, full of life. With 30,000 population, it supports a small university and a really lively market area. The effect of tourism is minimal, so prices are reasonable compared to neighbouring islands. Add to that several surrounding islets, plenty of anchorages for a day sails and I'm happy. There is an unmanaged marina just north of town, with a quite scary entrance guarded by a rocky reef.  Enter with care . . .

Samos and Ikaria are dealt with as part of the Dodecanese, even though they aren't. They're a natural extension of a Dodecanese cruise.

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Suitable Pilot guides

We can recommend two pilot guides:

2. Greece, Sea Guide, Nikolaos Ilias, 4 volumes in Greek and English. Expensive, but more anchorages and detail than Heikell, and  including charts. Obtainable from chandlers in Greek leisure yachting centres. See:  http://www.eagleray.gr/